GIÒ THỦ (VIETNAMESE HEAD CHEESE)

Giò Thủ is Vietnamese head cheese. The name sounds unusual but the result is one of the most texturally interesting cold cuts in the bánh mì tradition. Thin slices of pig’s ear and pork skin are simmered until tender, mixed with wood ear mushrooms and aromatics, then pressed and chilled until the natural gelatin sets everything into a firm, sliceable terrine.

The texture is unlike anything else in the archive. The ear provides a satisfying chew. The skin melts slightly on the tongue. The wood ear mushrooms add crunch. Sliced thin and layered into a bánh mì alongside chả lụa and chả bì, it is the component that makes Bánh Mì Đặc Biệt the most texturally complex sandwich in the Vietnamese repertoire.

L. Nguyen

Giò Thủ (Vietnamese Head Cheese)

Pig's ear and pork skin simmered until tender, mixed with wood ear mushrooms, garlic, shallots, and fish sauce, then pressed and chilled until the natural gelatin sets into a firm sliceable terrine. The essential cold cut for Bánh Mì Đặc Biệt. [ INTERMEDIATE ]

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Prep Time 30

Cook Time 1 30

Chill Time 4

Total Time 6

Servings: 1 loaf (serves 8 to 10 bánh mì)

Course: Condiment

Cuisine: Vietnamese

Ingredients Equipment Method Notes

Ingredients

The Terrine

500 g pig's ear, cleaned
300 g pork skin, cleaned
50 g dried wood ear mushrooms, soaked in warm water 30 minutes, drained and sliced thin
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 shallots, finely minced
3 tbsp fish sauce
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp white pepper
1 tsp black pepper, coarsely ground
1 tbsp neutral oil

The Poaching Liquid

2 liters water
1 tbsp salt
4 cloves garlic, smashed
2 shallots, halved
1 tsp black peppercorns

Equipment

Large pot
Wide pan
Loaf pan
Sharp knife

Method

Prepare the Meat

Rinse pig's ear and pork skin under cold running water. Place in a large pot, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse thoroughly. This removes impurities and produces a cleaner tasting terrine.
Return the ear and skin to the pot with the poaching liquid ingredients. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a steady simmer. Cook for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes until the ear is completely tender when pierced with a knife and the skin is soft. The ear should have no resistance when you cut through it.
Remove ear and skin from the liquid. Reserve 120ml of the poaching liquid. Discard the rest.
Let the ear and skin cool until they can be handled comfortably, about 15 minutes. Do not let them cool completely. They are easier to slice while still warm.

Prepare the Filling

Slice the pig's ear into thin strips approximately 3mm wide and 3 to 4cm long. Slice the pork skin into similar sized pieces. The uniform size ensures even distribution throughout the terrine.
Heat neutral oil in a wide pan over medium heat. Add garlic and shallots. Cook until softened and fragrant, 2 minutes.
Add the sliced ear and skin to the pan. Add fish sauce, sugar, white pepper, and black pepper. Stir to coat everything evenly. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until the mixture is fragrant and well seasoned.
Add the sliced wood ear mushrooms. Stir to combine. Add the reserved poaching liquid. Cook for 2 more minutes until the liquid is mostly absorbed. Taste and adjust fish sauce for salt.

Press and Chill

Line a loaf pan or any deep rectangular container with plastic wrap, leaving enough overhang to fold over the top.
Pack the mixture firmly and evenly into the lined container. Press down with your hands to eliminate air pockets. The mixture should be packed tightly.
Fold the plastic wrap over the top to cover completely. Place a second container or a flat weight directly on top of the mixture. Add something heavy on top. A full can of beans works well.
Refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours. Overnight produces the cleanest slices and the firmest texture.
To unmold, lift out using the plastic wrap overhang. Peel away the plastic. Slice with a sharp knife into pieces approximately 3 to 4mm thick. Wipe the knife clean between slices for the neatest result.

Notes

On sourcing the pig's ear: Pig's ear is available at most Asian grocery stores and many butcher shops. Ask the butcher to clean it if it is not already cleaned. If the ear still has hair on it, singe it off with a kitchen torch or pass it briefly over a gas flame before the first blanching step.

On the wood ear mushrooms: Dried wood ear mushrooms are available at any Asian grocery store. They expand significantly when soaked. 50g dried produces about 150g soaked. Do not substitute with fresh mushrooms. The texture is different and they release too much water into the mixture.

On pressing: The pressing step is what gives giò thủ its firm, sliceable texture. Skipping it or using insufficient weight produces a loose terrine that falls apart when sliced. Use the heaviest weight you can balance safely on the container. Overnight pressing produces the best result.

On storage: Giò thủ keeps refrigerated for up to 5 days wrapped tightly in plastic wrap. Do not freeze it. The gelatin structure breaks down when frozen and the texture is lost on thawing.

On yield: One batch produces enough for 8 to 10 bánh mì. The recipe scales well. Double the batch if making for a large gathering.

[ THE SCIENCE ]

Pig’s ear is mostly collagen, the same structural protein that holds skin and cartilage together. Collagen is tough and chewy when raw. When you simmer it in water for over an hour, the long collagen molecules break apart into shorter chains called gelatin. Gelatin dissolves in hot liquid but sets firm when it cools. Think of it like scaffolding that melts in heat and rebuilds itself in the cold. When you pack the cooked ear and skin into a mold and press it while it is still warm, the gelatin is still liquid and flows into every gap. As it chills, it sets around all the pieces, gluing them together into a single firm block. That is why the slice holds together cleanly instead of falling apart. The pressing adds one more thing: it forces out any remaining water, which concentrates the gelatin and produces a denser, firmer slice.

[ THE FAQ ]

Where do I find pig’s ear? Most Asian grocery stores carry it fresh or frozen. Many butcher shops stock it on request. Call ahead if you are not near an Asian grocery store. The ear is sometimes sold already cleaned and blanched, which saves the first preparation step.

Can I use a different cut instead of pig’s ear? Not for authentic giò thủ. The ear provides the distinctive chew and the collagen needed for the gelatin to set. Pork skin alone produces a softer, less textured result. If pig’s ear is completely unavailable, pork trotters contain similar collagen and produce a reasonable substitute, though the texture will be different.

Why does my giò thủ not set firmly? The most common cause is insufficient collagen in the mixture. This happens when the ratio of pork skin to ear is too high, or when the poaching liquid is not reduced enough before adding to the mixture. Make sure the reserved poaching liquid has a slightly viscous quality when warm. That viscosity is the dissolved gelatin that will set the terrine firm.

How thin should I slice it for bánh mì? Three to four millimeters is the correct thickness. Thinner than that and the slices tear when you pick them up. Thicker and the texture dominates the sandwich. A sharp knife and a cold, firmly set terrine produce the cleanest slices.

Can I make this ahead of time? Yes. Giò thủ is best made at least one day ahead. The texture improves significantly after 24 hours in the refrigerator as the gelatin fully sets and the flavors develop. Make it two days before you plan to serve it for the best result.

[ THE EQUIPMENT ]

A large pot handles the poaching step. A wide pan sautés the aromatics and finishes the filling. A loaf pan or deep rectangular container molds the terrine into a shape that slices cleanly. A sharp bread knife or slicing knife cuts through the set gelatin without tearing.

The full equipment list with specific recommendations is on the Equipment page.

[ WHAT TO READ NEXT ]

Giò thủ is one of three cold cuts that make up the Bánh Mì Đặc Biệt. The Chả Lụa recipe covers the steamed pork sausage that goes alongside it.

The Chả Bì recipe covers the shredded pork and pork skin component, the third cold cut in the combination.

When all three are ready, see the Bánh Mì Đặc Biệt recipe for the complete assembly, the sandwich that uses every cold cut on this site in the correct order.