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L. Nguyen

Pork Liver Pâté for Bánh Mì

Vietnamese-style pork liver pâté made from scratch. Pork liver, fatback, fish sauce, and five spice. Water bath method produces a smooth silky result. The fat barrier every bánh mì depends on. [ INTERMEDIATE ]
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 1 hour
Chill Time 4 hours
Total Time 5 hours 30 minutes
Servings: 20 bánh mì
Course: Condiment
Cuisine: Vietnamese

Ingredients
  

The Pâté
  • 300 g pork liver, cleaned and trimmed
  • 200 g pork fatback or unsalted butter, cut into cubes
  • 2 shallots, roughly chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
  • 2 tbsp fish sauce
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 1 tsp fine salt
  • ½ tsp white pepper
  • ½ tsp five spice powder
  • 2 tbsp neutral oil
The Seal
  • 60 g unsalted butter, melted

Equipment

  • Food processor
  • Fine mesh sieve
  • 450g loaf pan
  • Kitchen thermometer
  • Large baking dish (for water bath)

Method
 

Prepare the Liver
  1. Trim the pork liver of any visible connective tissue, bile ducts, and discoloured spots. If you are not sure what to remove, cut away anything that is tough, stringy, or a different colour from the main flesh. Cut into 3cm pieces.
  2. Place in a bowl and cover with cold water. Add 1 tsp salt. Soak for 30 minutes. You will see the water turn pink as the blood draws out. This is exactly what you want. It reduces the intensity of the liver flavour without removing it entirely. Drain and pat dry with a clean kitchen towel.
Cook the Aromatics
  1. Heat the neutral oil in a heavy pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until soft and translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Do not let either brown. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
Cook the Liver
  1. In the same pan over medium-high heat, cook the liver pieces in batches. Do not crowd the pan or the liver will steam instead of sear. Cook 2 minutes per side. The liver is ready when it is just cooked through with no pink remaining in the centre. Cut a piece open to check. It should be pale brown throughout, firm but not hard when pressed.
  2. This is the most important step in the recipe. Overcooked liver turns grainy and bitter. Undercooked liver is unsafe. Two minutes per side at medium-high heat in a hot pan is the correct approach. Pull it the moment it is done.
Blend
  1. Add the cooked liver, shallots, garlic, fatback or butter, fish sauce, sugar, salt, white pepper, and five spice to a food processor. Blend on high for 3 to 4 minutes. Stop twice to scrape down the sides with a spatula and push any unblended pieces back toward the blade.
  2. Keep blending until the mixture is completely smooth with no visible chunks. Run a spoon through it. If you can feel any texture at all, blend for another 2 minutes. The smoother it is at this stage the better the finished pâté will be.
Strain
  1. Push the blended mixture through a fine mesh sieve using a rubber spatula. Work in small batches and press firmly. What comes through should look like thick smooth cream. What stays behind in the sieve is connective tissue that did not blend down completely.
  2. This step takes about 5 minutes and it is the difference between a pâté that spreads like silk and one that tears the bread. Do not skip it.
Bake
  1. Preheat oven to 160°C / 320°F.
  2. Pour the strained mixture into a lightly greased 450g loaf pan. Smooth the top with a spatula. Cover tightly with aluminium foil.
  3. Place the loaf pan in a larger baking dish. Fill the baking dish with hot water until it reaches halfway up the sides of the loaf pan. This is a water bath. It ensures the pâté cooks gently and evenly without drying out or cracking.
  4. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 70°C / 158°F and the pâté is set but still slightly wobbly in the centre when the pan is gently shaken.
Seal and Chill
  1. Remove from the water bath. Let cool at room temperature for 20 minutes.
  2. Pour the melted butter over the top of the pâté in a thin even layer. The butter seal prevents oxidation and keeps the pâté fresh.
  3. Refrigerate for a minimum of 4 hours before serving. Overnight is better. The flavour develops significantly as it chills.
Serve
  1. Run a knife around the edges of the loaf pan. Turn out onto a cutting board. Slice as needed. Return the remainder to the loaf pan, cover, and refrigerate.

Notes

Flower Brand pork liver pâté is the correct store-bought substitute if you do not have time to make this from scratch. Any smooth French-style pork liver pâté from a reputable deli is also acceptable. Avoid rough country-style pâté with large chunks and avoid pâté with strong herbs like thyme or rosemary. Those flavours compete with the cilantro and jalapeño in the sandwich.
The pâté freezes well for up to 3 months. Slice it before freezing for easier portioning. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator before using.
The water bath temperature should not exceed 100°C during baking. If the water starts to boil, add a small amount of cold water to bring the temperature down.
This recipe produces enough pâté for 15 to 20 bánh mì. It is worth making a full batch and freezing half.